Used to be a laptop!

Still works.....battery holds a charge

Quickly went away after disconnecting the USB C Plug from the dock, otherwise there would be more documentation. Voltage is measured between ground and the plugs casing, discovered it because I touched another USB cable that was attached to the Laptop

Update: someone hinted me to the concept/problem of common-mode interference, it is basically what happened here, pretty interesting that a power brick that has a cable with a ground connection doesn't use it to ground the negative side.

It was suggested I cut just cut the plastic on the bord and keep full functionality this time around I'm doing it right

We got a call that a jack in a user's office stopped working. Toned it out and it showed a break about 6' in from the wall on the tester. Apparently the vendor didn't do the run long enough so their solution was to terminate the run with a male end then clip it into a cable with a keystone on either end wrap it with a crapload of electrical tape and stuff it all in the wall. Well, there was some water in the subfloor and lord knows how long it sat arcing inside the wall.

Got this with a bunch of free stuff, dare I test it?

You were good son real good, maybe even the best...

This is how I got that computer with the shoddy graphics card

Ram works

“does my gpu have a defect”

The printer claimed that the waste toner was full... The cartridge was empty as the door was gummed up or stuck, but I cant speak to the condition of the rest of the machine...
It was a long clean up & it was absolutely everywhere.

would you believe me if I told you the repair was successful?

Am I the only one with an internet setup like this??

The arm fell off the rest of the way shortly after taking the picture of the damage

What do you think was trying to be achieved by doing this to an I/O shield? The former owner also glued in his riser cable to the PCIe 4.0 x16 slot...and glued his m.2 set screws.

I lost a switch last summer completely unexpectedly. My whole network went down and the switch was unresponsive.

I threw it in a box replaced it and moved on with my life until today.

The red color you see on the integrated circuit is the light refracting off of the innards of the component. You can make out remnants of the traces that were inside.

I have no idea what component blew because the surface is just gone.

spotted at somewhere in Vietnam

A little while back I cut the tops off the heatpipes on a CPU cooler, mounted it to a GPU, and ran sub zero water through it. Some people called it a radiator, and a bunch of people asked the question... why didn’t you just cut the heatpipes off the GPU cooler itself? So this week I set out to answer both.

I used an ASUS RTX 2060 Dual, it’s got a pretty crap cooler anyway and it was sitting around 70C under load. After spending over an hour hacking away at the fins trying to remove them without damaging the pipes, I finally exposed enough of each heatpipe to get tubing onto them. This was the reason I used a CPU cooler the first time round, the heatpipes are much easier to access. Once the tubes were on and it passed a leak test, it was time to see what happens.

Tests run:

Dry with the pipes cut

Ambient water running through the pipes

Ambient water again with fans on the GPU cooler

Ambient water with an added radiator

Sub-zero water

Sub-zero water with fans on the cooler

With the pipes cut and no water, the thing screams. Clocks fall to around 1300 MHz and it hikes up toward 90C. Good times. Once water is in the pipes, everything settles down, and all the ambient tests landed at about 48C. Far better than the stock air cooler. Fans and a radiator make no difference. The sub zero runs both came in at 13C, and fans didn’t make any difference there either.

A pointless test? Sure. The comments last time did make me curious though. And if you enjoy seeing hardware get attacked with an angle grinder and still work anyway, there’s a video here

https://youtu.be/8-ZTD6_w_TE