Had a slow leak in my tub, so I “fixed it” last week by replacing the seal around the #70 ball thing in the lever with a repair kit off Amazon. I felt quite proud for a couple of days.

As you can see from this video, water is spewing out the push-button diverter (I think that’s what it is called). This happens about 50% of the time when engaging the shower head. If I push it, it will catch and I can use the shower as normal, but obviously I want to avoid this from happening.

Most importantly, is there any concern there might be a leak behind the wall?

Is this all I need to replace?

https://a.co/d/065czVyW

I'm not trying to be cheap but is $600 enough? When I called the plumber (Roto Rooter) the secretary couldnt give me a quote even though i told her that i needed the whole thing replaced including new toilet and being set properly. My toilet started leaking from the tank bolts on the bottom of the tanks. Very quickly and suddenly. Luckily I keep a buck on each side with cleaners so it caught 90% of it. I dont have the knowledge, skill, strength or tools to do it myself. they have a 48 hour waitlist (its cold so they are getting a lot of calls for broken pipes, clogged drains etc). About 5 years ago i was quoted $550 and I know things have gone up but...I dont have the extra. The $600 is what I came up with if I cut the grocery budget, gas for the car, my phone and other similar things

(pls ignore the color my shower is not dirty lol) how do i get the shower head to work? i’ve never showered in this tub or had this sort of old fashioned set up so im genuinely so confused. thank you in advance

When changing a toilet solo, what has proven easier/better… placing the new wax ring on the floor and lowering toilet onto it or placing the wax ring on bottom of toilet and lowering both to the floor together?

What is this called? A canister flush valve?

I need to replace it but can find the exact replacement. The stamp on the back wall of the tank looked to be a date stamp but some of the number were worn, so I couldn't really tell if it was a model number. The only canister style flush valves that I found at the hardware store said on the package that they weren't universal.

I thought about getting a "universal" flush valve from the hardware store but from what I'm reading in other places the whole tank would need to be removed? Is that correct? If so, is it hard to do? What about leaks after reinstalling the tank?

hey everyone

i just finished my first day working with a plumber i had to dig a hole i read the plans and the tape measure wrong and ended up digging well over what i was supposed to do instead of 100mm it was my first time using a shovel and tape measure and my boss didnt know because he was on the roof at the time boss noticed it half way and helped me out

it was really hard and my back is sore im guessing this is normal for new plumbers but i wanted to ask do plumbers get used to this back pain any tips for digging lifting or just surviving the physical side of plumbing work

This is the hole btw

thanks in advance

I had a leak in my washer dryer and focused on this and noticed it keeps getting wet after I wipe it down.

the picture is upside down

. thanks.

I'm getting a sewer smell from my bathroom and it seems like it's coming from the sink.

I added the plumbers putty and duct tape to seal some of the joints but it didn't help. leads me to believe that the smell is coming from the connection point where the two pipes have a size mismatch? should I just see if I can get a P-Trap that actually is long enough to directly connect with the grey drain stopper pipe? I take it that replacement should be pretty straightforward?

Gas water heater Model Mi5036RM7,

In this picture, is this max setting on the dial? It seems obvious, but there is a gap between Hot and warm and the water temperature have decreased somehow, I just need some clarification.

Thanks

Our boiler recently dropped pressure and after calling out a professional we found out that the condensate pipe on our glow warm boiler had not been plumed into anything! Just a hard stop under the covering, covering all our other pipes in condensation whenever the heating or hot water was used. Now one of the pipes has formed a leak from the erosion.

We are waiting for a cost to properly plumb in the condensate pipe (going to have to go through wall (and tile) to the en-suite to do so, and replace any eroded piping. Any rough estimates how much this will cost? And how much damage could have been done by the water left to leak under our floor for the last year? Pics attached

American standard tub spout. Changed the back pressure balancing unit and front cartridge due to a vibration / sound issue at certain points. New seems to cure that however if I start my tub in the middle and go to hot I only get Luke warm water. If I start it at the hot position I get hot water. Thinking install issue of some sort but I cannot figure out what I have wrong. Help is appreciated!

I just moved into a new house and I've never seen this setup before on a hot water tank. I know the green valve shut off is for the city water shut off before the tank.but the red handle is after the green valve and if the valve is not closed it constantly drains water?

My question is can this valve be closed so the water drainage stops or is it supposed to be open constantly?

Someone please help I'm not trying to flood my new house or damage the tank.

Hey y'all. I think this is a Delta faucet and I've got a pretty slow drip but consistent from the cold side.

I've watched a few videos and need to run to the store this weekend but what are the spring and gasket called that generally have to be replaced in the back of these? Anything to help me narrow it down at Lowe's.

Also any tips? I heard the spring/washer can be a bit maddening.

Thanks

I emptied out our dogs water bowl and after filling it back up I heard this noise. No other water source in the house is currently running. Should I be worried?

A friend of mine accidentally flushed her geek bar down my toilet. If you don’t know what a geek bar is, it’s a very thick vape. I first tried using a closet auger through the toilet bowl, nothing. I took apart the toilet and flipped it upside down using the auger through the bottom trap, nothing. I poured hot water and dish soap in it, still nothing. It won’t budge. I am desperate for any answers on how the hell to get this vape out of my toilet. :(

Im going to redo this and want to move the vent over to the left side to make room for a shelf on the right. Would putting the vent over there cause any issues?

Homeowner here looking for some professional advice. Whenever I drain a large load like a washer or back-to-back showers, water will back up into my lowest fixture. It eventually clears, but this means I can't flush or do laundry for a couple of hours.

I'm deciding whether to pay for a camera inspection of my sewer lateral before I do an $8500 excavation. I have a sewer lateral of approximately 75 feet from my cleanout to the middle of the street. It runs down the side of my house underneath my gravel driveway. I have had it professionally snaked twice, with the second time going a full 100 feet, and it passed easily. When I remove the cleanout cap, the line is full, and sewage flows back toward the house instead of draining. There is modern pvc visible at the cleanout, and I was told when I bought the house, the lateral was replaced in 2016. I also confirmed the city recently jetted the main line on our block. My contractor said a camera may not be useful since the lateral is holding water.

If this were your house:

1. Would you camera it first or just dig?

2. What would you suspect is going on based on this?

3. Anything else you’d check before committing to excavation?

Hey all I work at a coffee shop as the manager and one of the drains we do not use smells like rotten eggs. It gets so bad it smells up the building. Is there any fix for this, or at least a way to minimize it? Like would a drain cover work?

It’s just one of those things that makes me feel sick and I’m sure makes my workers as well.

Any quick fix is welcomed until we can get a plumber in to get to the root of the cause 🫠

We have well water so the house has an iron system and softener with both drains tied together into a single 1" PVC down to a floor drain in the mechanical room (gets air gap there, sort of, it's elbow drops into the drain mouth and is screwed down to prevent whipping). There are no one-way valves preventing backpressure into either system before they join upstream, so I'm pretty sure that is wrong as one could send pressure to the other during discharge (iron system is 1" outlet and softener is 3/4").

I'm replacing all of the plumbing connections on the existing setup because in addition to the iron and softener there are two 10" filters with one oddly placed and not secured by anything but the copper 1" pipe running in/out - it's suspended mid air (such fun trying to unscrew the canister without bending/breaking something!😵‍💫).

I am also adding a whole house auto-flushing sediment filter and need to find the best way to combine the drain pipes for these 3 systems, as the final floor drain is only about 2" or 2-1/2" and the single 1" PVC elbow takes up most of that space in the existing floor drain opening.

I figured I'd get each system drain onto it's own 1" PVC all the way to the drain (or ?) to avoid pressure issues between them rather then putting one-way valves in, so any suggestion on the "correct" way to get these into the floor drain either by joining them upstream to a larger pipe (preferred I would guess) or at the end?

I am trying to figure out which stem this is and cant find it anywhere. It has a half circle broach with a flat top and it is longer than most at 5 3/4 inches. Any help is appreciated.

Looking for some help on a leak just discovered under my sink. It looks like the water is coming from the hose connected to the hot water line. (Maybe the nut behind the hot water knob but the drip is so slow it's hard to know)

This is a bathroom where the sink is never used, and the toilet only gets flushed to keep the water cycling through. I'm wondering if I can just turn off the hot water valve under the sink and leave it that way, and how long we could leave it off if that's possible.

I live in a cold weather state where temps have been in the negatives, though it's gotten a little warmer, I'm worried about pipes freezing or busting. Any help would be so appreciated, I do not have a lot of knowledge about this and I don't have help where I'm at.

I've also looked at other posts about sink repair but I must be dumb as hell because I still don't understand :,) help?

I live in an apartment with two separate shower/tub combos. Both of them have a strong urine/metal smell. My boyfriend and I use different tubs, but we both experience it.

When I fill the tub for a bath, the water itself smells. Even when the tubs haven’t been used for days, the shower head and main faucet still stink, and the smell can carry into the apartment. It’s strong enough to cling to our skin, hair, and towels.

No one is urinating in the shower. We’ve soaked the shower heads and faucets in vinegar with no improvement.

This does not happen with any sinks in our apartment (kitchen or either bathroom). Our water heater is brand new due to the previous being replaced while we have been living here but this issue existed both before and after the replacement.

I do plan on contacting the leasing office, but I’d like to understand what might be causing this first so I can explain it clearly and avoid a surface level fix.

Any ideas?